What You’ll Receive:
- Detailed cut list and plans including a PDF and a SketchUp file (Metric and Imperial).
- Paper patterns so you can make your own hard templates.
- Hours of detailed video instruction (19 videos in total) showing every step of the build.
- All videos and plans are digital and will be available for download upon purchase.
What You’ll Learn
- Material Selection
- End Panel Faux-rail Construction
- Ebony pegs
- Greene & Greene edge/corner treatment
- Biscuit joinery
- Domino Joinery
- Finger Joints
- Spline joinery
- Greene & Greene Ebony Splines
- Breadbaord Ends
- Drawer Construction
- Hanging Drawers on wooden runners
- Pattern Making
- Making offset matching pattern
- Template Routing
- Cloud lifts
- Shaping /pillowing proud fingers
- Making a G&G Pull
- Discussion on Greene & Greene Design
- Greene and Greene finishing
What You’ll Need:
Note: This is not a required list of tools. This is simply what Darrell used during the build. Remember, there are always multiple ways to accomplish a task so if you don’t have one or more of these tools, you can very likely still make this project.
Tools
- Table Saw
- Jointer
- Planer
- Router/Router table
- Plunge router
- Bandsaw
- Hand Drill
- Drill Press
- Spindle Sander
- Buffing wheel
- Disc sander
- Hollow Chisel Mortiser
- Biscuit joiner
- Domino DF 500
- Sharp flat bottom dado head
Bits
- 1/8” aircraft (long) drill bit
- Countersink bit for #6 screw
- 5/8” collar
- 1” collar
- ¼” straight or spiral bit
- 5/16” spiral bit
- 1/8” round over
- Top bearing Flush trim bit
- Bottom bearing flush trim bit
- ¼” spiral flush trim
- ½”Spiral flush trim bit w/
- 5/8” oversize bearing
- ¾” oversize bearing
- ¾” straight or end mill bit
- 1” straight or end mill bit
- 3/8” bull nose spiral
- ¼” spline (slotting) cutter
Hand Tools
- Lee Valley Square punches ( with appropriate drill bits)
- ¼”
- 5/16”
- Small plastic headed mallet
- Calipers capable of measuring to .oo1
- Fine grain rasp
- Medium grain rasp
- Flush trim hand saw
- Sharp chisels
Finishing
- Stain applicator
- General finishes dye stain medium brown
- General finishes dye stain orange
- Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish
Misc. Stuff
- Table saw sled
- Heavy duty Double back tape
- Hot melt glue gun
- Sanding mops – 120 grit
The history of the design, from Darrell Peart:
The Fremont Nightstand came about as many designs do from a client request. My client had purchased an Aurora Chest of Drawers and wanted two three-drawer Nightstands as companions. My Aurora nightstand only had one drawer, and in my mind, adding two more drawers to the design simply would not work. I had to start fresh. I decided to retain the single drawer from the Aurora NS as the top drawer for the new piece. I also decided upon case construction (as opposed to legs and aprons) – which allowed me to use the tapered leg from the Chest of Drawers.
It had been a few years since I had designed the Chest of Drawers and in the meantime some tweaks to the design had been bouncing around in my head. The most important of these was a re-work of the leg to add a sort of corbel at the top. In my mind the corbel reaches out and gives added visual support to the top.
This was one of those magical designs that took form as if I were just sitting back and watching the process take place. Subconsciously, I think I had worked out much of this design even before I had the client request.
The biggest problem this piece presented was – what to name it! I already had an Aurora Nightstand – and I did not want to go with Aurora Nightstand II. So thinking back – the original inspiration for my Aurora series came when standing in line at the grocery store while looking out the window to the arches in the Aurora Bridge. The Aurora Bridge connects the Fremont District in Seattle with Queen Anne. I was standing on the Fremont side of the bridge. If I had been standing on the Queen Anne side – that would have complicated things!
