Traveling Anarchist’s Tool Chest

• Detailed cut list and plans including a PDF and a SketchUp file (Metric and Imperial).
• Almost 8 hours of detailed video instruction (16 Lessons)  showing every step of Traveling Anarchist's Tool Chest Build.
• All videos and plans are digital and will be available for download upon purchase.
• Access to the lesson comments section for questions.
• Closed Captions

• How (and why) to lay out of dovetails with dividers
• How to efficiently wield handplanes for surface prep, and for cutting simple mouldings
• How to cut dovetails by hand (enough that you’ll be well-practiced by the time you’re done!) and why I like a tails-first approach
• The benefits of hide glue
• How clamps like to misbehave on camera (and how to use clamping blocks to pull your dovetails tight if need be)
• How to cut mortise-and-tenon joints by hand (and fine-tuning the fit)
• How to cut a groove-and-groove joint (it’s like a tongue-and-groove joint, but stronger)
• How to install handmade hinges and chest lifts
• How to outfit the chest interior with sliding trays (yes – more dovetails!), a tool rack for chisels and other pointy tools, and a saw rack
• How and why I like to paint tool chests.
• A look inside a finished chest for storage ideas.
• The basics of surfacing lumber by hand (with the caveat that I do that only if I _have_ to!)

• Wood - For the wood I recommend a lightweight and relatively inexpensive wood that accepts paint well: Eastern white pine, Sugar pine, and basswood are good choices. For the interior fittings, a hard-wearing wood will serve longer: hard maple or oak are good choices for the till runners. The tills themselves (and the tool rack and saw till) can be anything you like (I like walnut for the till sides and harp maple for the till bottoms, simply because the combination looks nice).

Need a resource for wood? We partner with 2 online wood dealers (Bell Forest and CRMuterspaw) If you have Guild+ you can save by using your discounts!

• Tools - Note that for some operations, I mention power-tool alternatives.
  • Smoothing plane
  • Jack plane
  • Block plane
  • Marking or cutting gauge
  • Marking knife
  • .5mm mechanical pencil
  • Dividers (2 pair if you’ve got ‘em)
  • 6” combo square
  • Dovetail marking gauge or sliding bevel
  • Dovetail saw
  • Bench chisels 1”, ½” and 1/4” (If you don’t have a 1” chisel, you can use a plane blade where it’s needed)
  • Mallet
  • Rabbeting plane, moving fillister or a large shoulder plane
  • Plow plane (1/4” cutter) - If you want to cut the grooves on the tablesaw, you won't need this.
  • Tenon saw (or other ripsaw – a backsaw will make it easier to get a good cut) 1/4” mortising chisel
  • Hammer
  • Coping saw or fret saw with extra blades (I recommend Pegas blades)
  • Flush-cut saw
  • Drill and bits
  • Cabinet clamps, 40” or longer (at least 4)
  • Optional: Machinist's square, double square or diemaker’s square; slöjd knife, Router Plans
• Hardware - You'll need three butt hinges or two chest hinges. Chest lifts and ring pulls for the tills are optional.
  • Two Hand-Forged Iron Hinges (what I used) or three 2 1/2" Butt Hinges
  • Ring Pulls or Hand-Forged Ring pulls
  • Two Handles (Optional)
• Paint - I like General Finishes faux milk paint. It has a flat finish, close to that of traditional milk paint, but is easier (and faster) to use without practice. General Finishes Milk Paint (Persian Blue)